Creality Ender 3 vs CR-10 Mini 3D Printers

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Views: 51177 , Video Rating: 4.65 , View Time: 9:5 Minutes, # of Likes: 685, # of Disslikes: 51

Chuck compares the Creality CR-10 Mini to the Ender 3 3D Printers which are both below $300. He goes over a few of the features he likes and dislikes so you can choose the printer that fits both your budget and your needs to enjoy 3D Printing now and in the future.

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Creality Ender 3:
From Banggood $179.99 USA WAREHOUSE!
From Amazon: $239.00 PRIME SHIPING
From Gearbest $179.99

Ender 3 Pro:
From Banggood.com $249
From Amazon.com $279

CR10 Mini
From Banggood $289.99 shipped to USA:
From Amazon.com $369.00 via Prime:
From Gearbest $322.10

CR-10:
Original Single Z-axis Printer from Banggood: $379.99

CR-10S with Dual Z Axis from Banggood $510.99

CR-10 From GearBest.com $389.99

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are you thinking about getting a low-cost printer but here's two good ones this is the Cree ality CR 10 mini just under $300 this is their new under 3 just under $200 I'm going to talk about the differences and which one I recommend on today's filament Friday filament Friday is brought to you every week by the generous donations of these patrons supporters and they get special access to chap club comm so join us so the first major difference is this is just under three hundred dollars two hundred eighty nine ninety nine through the link in the description below it's through banggood.com and that is shipped from a US warehouse which means you can get it in like five days this exact machine I bought this one was donated to the channel by banggood for me to do a review this came out of China right now it's a hundred and seventy nine ninety nine through the link in the description below that that comes out of China and they're sold out so what you're doing is actually a pre-sale you're buying ahead of time because normally it was a $199.99 at their site the ender three is smaller it's got a 220 by 220 by 220 tall building where the CR 10 mini has a 300 millimeter by 220 by 300 millimeters so it's wider and taller a lot more build area another difference this one is a kit I mean literally a kit there's a lot of pieces that have to be put together and when you do there's a lot of things you have to adjust I actually had to take this apart twice to fix some things and I still got a little bit of a rocking there's a problem with these if you don't put it together exactly right you can get some twisting in the frame I've got it printing really good I've got everything squared up as best I could I still got a little bit of rocky that's a kit the kit you're gonna tweak you're gonna play with if you like to do that and save a hundred dollars by all means this is the kit for you the CR 10 mini it's a little different it's mostly assembled there's four bolts to bolt the top to the bottom and on a side bracket and then connect the wires and you're ready to start printing it took me about 15 minutes to put together the co 10 mini it took me about an hour to put together the under three one other major difference between these two is the heated bed they're both 220 watts but this one has the same type of CR 10 the full-size seer 10 connection where it's two wires soldered to the bed and in a separate wire for the temperature sensor they do have strain relief on here I don't think it's the best but it's something that someone designed and 3d printed and they've copied it and put it on this machine where this one the CR 10 mini is unique amongst the CR text it's got a solid connector with two solder joints per white so two for positive two for negative and two for the temperature sensor because the temperature sensor wiring is actually built into the circuit board for the bed so this makes it much more reliable than this another feature that some people like or don't like is the electronics the electronics are separate in a separate box for this guy to see are too many where the Ender 3 has the power supply exposed right here on the side it does have a fuse and everything which is good the electronics are built into the base now this makes it completely portable so you can just pick it up and go where the CR 10 mini I actually have to take the power supply wrap the wires around bring on to the front like this and then I can carry it off now you'll notice I don't have the spool holder on here I instead put it on the back and I'll show you how to put it there and it works so much better and that frees up the electronics I can put a box over this and now put the box over there electronics electronics don't like heat so keeping that separate is an advantage where this one I put a box over and try to pretty be as I'm heating the electronics that's not a good thing for reliability the under three is a spool holder mount on top of the machine this is fine but it's a little bit short on the CR 10 minute a suggest you put it on top of the power supply but there's a little trick you drill out the holes on the bracket and then use the spare bolt and t-nuts that they include in the box for the CR 10 mini and you can do this you use two of the T nuts as spacers and then two on the bottom to connect and then you can mount the spool holder right at the back of the machine it works really really well I use that on my fully modified machine that's part of my print farm another difference is the bed material they both have an aluminum bed but the under three has a build tech material on top it seems to work really well where the CR ten has a glass top that you can actually remove I prefer the glass a little glue on glass you get a nice smooth finish but if you don't want that you can unclip it take it off and then you can put build tech material on top of the aluminum bed so you have two options you just have to buy the build tech like I said I prefer the glass it works well for me another potential issue I found with the under three as the cabling is not long enough when the beam was all the way to the top it pulled the wires tight and then the bed would rub against it now you can strap this down to the side but then I found that made the wire is even tighter and limited the movement of the carriage so the wires just frankly just aren't long enough they both use a micro SD card they come with sample files and I printed them out this is the first print on the Ender three it's little dog and it actually printed quite good I'm impressed with how smooth it is now there's a little bit of ghosting on it but it's a still a very good print but I really like to compare apples to apples and it comes with a sample set of filament in a little bag not nearly enough to do anything I don't even know if this is enough to print the dog so what I did is used a spool which is the same school that comes with the CR 10 mini you get an actual spool of filament which is I don't know it's not a full spool but it's a lot more than a little sample you get here so you can actually print some stuff so the first print I ever did on the CR 10 mini was this guy right here the the cap and this is a view full print very smooth I got a little bit of ghosting on the front but overall this thing almost looks injected molded so I use that same filament and printed it on the under three and I'll show you close up with these guys this is a very good print but not nearly as good as this one it's a little bit rougher a little bit crisper on the edges so I could improve some things maybe four you know settings and stuff to slice it but these are both the same g-code that came from pre allottee the same one that's on here if printed in the center of the bed it printed slightly offset on this one because of a smaller bed but overall I would say in my experience the CR 10 mini out-of-the-box printed better than the under three the fact is either one of these is a very good printer for the price for under $300 you are getting an incredible set of equipment the hot end I love the way it works it's a Bowden setup with a very good extruder and frankly it's just a very solid printer in both cases even with this little bit of wobbliness you put something underneath there it's fine but between the two I personally would spend the extra hundred dollars and get the bigger build area get the solid frame get a machine that's really ready to go out of the box and I just think there's more you could do with this than you can with the under three if you're limiting a budget you can only afford $200 this is a far better choice than a lot of the $200 printers out there so I'm not knocking it at all I think it's a good printer I personally don't like the exposed power supply like this I wanted inside a metal box but overall that's fine it's safe I'm sure it's grounded and it's screwed to the frame so the whole frame is grounded but I just like this printer better and if I had to recommend something to a friend family member someone getting started I would say save the extra hundred dollars get a CR 10 mini it's well worth the extra hundred dollars I use this printer and a lot of the project videos that are popping up right over here and if you want to help support the channel a dollar amount the patreon get you access to check club where I have and a lot of the files that I do on filament Friday and if nothing else click on that check logo and subscribe it really helps the channel that's it for this week I'll see you next time right here at filmer Friday

Creality Ender 3 vs CR-10 Mini 3D Printers

22 thoughts on “Creality Ender 3 vs CR-10 Mini 3D Printers”

  1. The CR10 Mini looks great.
    I have the Ender 3 and I am not sure why your frame is wobbly. I didn't tighten anything until it was fully assembled to allow some play in the frame. It was only after it was fully assembled I went back and tightened up the bolts. I suspect that could be where your wobble is and also possibly affecting your prints.

    Great printers. I bought my ender 3 off ebay for $165 and I couldn't be happier. All of my desired prints are small anyway.

  2. Chuck nice revue.
    The question is: what is the reason CR-10 prints are better than Ender3? And what to do to get the same quality?
    You talked a lot about visible differences but how about inside? Different motherboards? Hot ends? Extruders?
    I am still considering CR10 or Ender 3 Pro

  3. Hey Chuck. I found this video, but a bit late I guess… I've been trying to figure out which printer to buy as my first but there are just so many different kinds with only small differences. I've come to the conclusion that Creality3D is what I want to go for but there is still Ender-3, Ender 3X, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5, CR 10 Mini, CR10, CR10S and so on…

    I notice that in this video you recommend the CR10Mini, but then in most of your newer videos you are using the Ender-3..?

    Which of the above would you recommend, or discard? And what would in your mind be the most/first important upgrade?

    I hope you have time to reply! I really liked your videos, I'm now subscribed and will keep watching all of them.

  4. I just got my CR-10 Mini in the mail today, Jan 7th 2019, and it has the Ender 3 bed with the two solder points. And the kicker….the bed won't heat…why….because one of the solders isn't on the contact point but on the bed itself.

  5. Kind of continuing Tim Robertson's question a few days ago because the price difference has made it too appealing (CR-10 is $40 less than Mini on Creality's own site)… So besides the physical differences between the Cr-10 mini/Ender 3 and the CR-10, does it just come down to lack of Auto-resume for the CR-10 (the older mainboard)? And if I'm remembering correctly from a bunch of threads I read online, Auto-resume really only works well if caught before temps start dropping on the printer (I'm out of luck if I'm monitoring it from work)? Trying to figure out how important Auto-resume will be for me, the hobbyist. Thanks Chuck. Happy Holidays to you and yours.

  6. Thank you Chuck. I've been trying to gain knowledge to make an informed decision before purchasing. I was originally considering a Dbot CoreXY (and will probably have one in the future at some time) but, I saw how big of a community the Creality printers have behind them. Your video helps me reaffirm my decision to go with the Mini (I don't need the bigger build volume… yet.) I still may get an Ender for my niece.

    I have a quick question though. You mentioned that having the electronics fastened to the frame of the printer has its positives and negatives. Do you think the electronics of the Ender could be re-configured into a separate unit like the CR-10 with a little DIY? Are the cables long enough? A little sheet metal, a bending brake, a couple of extrusions to connect the base ends and a different pulley on the base could make it a mini CR-10 Mini!

    p.s. I hope Connor has a good game but doesn't shutout my LA Kings tonight. I hate that the NHL decided not to participate in the Olympics. I was looking forward to seeing him represent the team for many years to come.

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